Egypt

Out of Egypt

חג שמח, or Happy Passover. 

This morning, as I was sipping coffee and working on my computer at my kitchen table, I was suddenly aware of the smell of smoke. I jumped up and rushed to the window, worried I would find my backyard on fire (especially worried considering I saw a neighboring apartment catch fire the day before!). But it was not my backyard, it was the neighboring Synagogue's, and the flames were contained into a small BBQ pit. Children and men with kippahs on their heads gathered around the fire tossing in loaves of bread, and bags of flour as they rid the synagogue of Chametz (leaven) or any food including leaven such as wheat, rye, barley, oats, and spelt. Some Jews also avoid rice, corn, peanuts, and legumes. My roommate explained to meet that this is a traditional Jewish custom of Passover. 

This tradition comes from the Biblical story of Exodus, in which Gold led the Jews to freedom from the Egyptians. It's said that, after God inflicted ten plagues on the Egyptians, the Pharaoh finally let the Jewish slaves go. They left in such a hurry, they did not even have time to let their bread rise, hence the week of eating unleavened foods. Led by Moses, the Jews eventually made it into Israel and back to the temple in Jerusalem. 

(c) Steve Jeter

And while this year I'm in Israel, I had a very atypical Passover experience. Currently there are over 40,000 refugees who fled their countries (mainly Eritrea, and Sudan), and made their own exodus by land, through Egypt and into Israel. They come here fleeing dictators, and regimes, and war, and famine. But life in Israel has proved difficult and many of them end up living on the streets, desperate for work, and food. For the last couple of years, ARDC (African Refguee Development Center), has worked to commemorate this modern day exodus during the Passover holiday. This year, like the years previous, they organized a Passover Seder in Levinsky Park where the majority of the refugees live. 


I went to the seder and volunteered, putting up tables and chairs, and passing out plates of food to over 300 people. Instead of doing the typical ceremony that accompanies the dinner, a speech was given in English, Hebrew, Arabic, and Tigrinya. The speech briefly explained the history of Passover and then went on to say this: "Today tens of thousands of our brothers and sisters are fleeing countries run by modern day Pharaohs. Fleeing brutal dictators and organized murder, running for their lives. Many of you here today made the same journey across the same desert. You have arrived here in Israel hoping to find freedom and rebuild your lives. The question we have today is where is our Moses? Who will lead us all to freedom?"


Throughout the speech, many of the refugees seemed skeptical, choosing to stand on the outskirts instead of taking seats at the table. Things like this don't usually happen in Levinsky Park, and rarely are events organized for people like them. The skepticism increased when they saw all these people with cameras documenting the event. Many hid their faces confused as to what the photographs would be used for, worrying they might lead to their deportation. 

But the draw of food was too strong for hungry bellies. After the volunteers began passing out dinners, the circle was closed and everyone near came to eat. It was hard seeing people who are so hungry. While there's a high rate of poverty and homelessness in D.C., there's also numerous social services to counteract it; homeless shelters, soup kitchens etc. In Israel these services don't exist for this population. 

Eventually, stomach were filled and the mood lifted. The music got louder and the dancing began. It was fun to dance with everyone and feel like, maybe just for for five minutes, nothing else mattered!

Sinai

Dahab has totally changed my perspective on Egypt. I guess you can never really qualify an entire country based on one city, but the Sinai was such a different experience than the one I had in Cairo.

My friend Steve and I took the 'night' bus from Jerusalem to Eilat which is the Israeli border between Israel and Egypt. The bus was certainly not meant for sleeping though, as Israelis were singing, talking, and yelling all through the 12 a.m. to 5 a.m. tip. When we arrived before daybreak, completely unrested, it was at least a releif that the Eilat border crossing was much less time consuming than the Allenby Bridge. Although my Israeli student visa seems to cause more skepticism and concern than traveling without an Israeli Visa. Apparently they're skeptical of anyone from the U.S. who wants to study there. Well, that bodes well for my academic future.

Leaving Eilat and crossing the border put us in Taba, Egypt where we able to grab a shared taxi to drive the hour south to Dahab. Steve and I just randomly selected a Hotel I'd written down, and I really think we lucked out.  For $13 a piece at 'Dahab Plaza' we managed to get our own room with our own bathroom (WOW!!), with airconditiong (I'd nearly forgotten what that was!), linen, towels, T.V. (for practicing my Arabic), swimming pool, free shisha, coffee, and tea, and continental breakfast at a reastaurant nearby! I fell in love with Dahab right then.

Dahab is like the West Coast of Egypt if Cairo is like the East (don't get me wrong, I actually love the East, obviously). While the economy is still made on tourism, they are much more laid back about everything. Hustling is not as important as enjoying the day. Sure, 'business is business,' as they say in the Middle East, but in Dahab there is more to life than just business. I think there's something to be said for living and working on the water. I saw several waiters end their wait shifts with a jump in the ocean! How refreshing.

The couple of days spent there went by so fast considering Steve and I hardly did anything! Which for two fast-paced people like us, slowing down is usually a very difficult thing. A lot of the day revolved around lounging in the restaurants and cafes that literally sat on top of the water. We enjoyed the best fruit smoothies and drinks I've ever tasted, wonderful sea food that was scooped right up from the water next to us. We even smoked shisha under a canopy of stars.

We went snorkeling as well, which was one of the most amazing experiences ever. Definitely the best snorkeling I've done - which is not to say I've done a lot, but I have done it in a few places. This blew them all out of the water, pardon the H2O pun.  You can literally snorkel anywhere. In between sips on a coffee, you can don your gear, walk down the steps of the restaruant, float on your stomach and bear witness to amazing sights of coral and fish.

Steve and I walked down the boardwalk a ways and found a beduin camp that did snorkeling at a place called the 'three islands.' It was intimidating at first, where the water is waste deep and your floating over sea enenomeas with long black spikes threatening to stab you in the stomach. But as you swim further you come to a coral reef and a drop off where you are free to dive down and examine the depths of the sea. It was wonderful, until we spotted two poisonous lion fish! But actually that was quite wonderful too! From a distance.

Steve and I also took a jeep ride to a snorkeling spot called the 'Blue Hole.' It is almost an immediate drop off here, surrounded coral and caverns and teeming with sea life. The fish are unperturbed by any human prescence and swim within inches of you. I saw more colors there than I've seen in one place before. It was really an incredible experience. Full of mystery too. The caves and caverns of the Blue Hole stretch down for meters and meters. In fact, no one knows how far. The deepest depth to be recorded thus far is 400 meters! It's an interesting experience to be offered a view at this whole new unerwater world and know that it is literally, just the surface view of the life that exists below you!

It was a sad day when Steve and I grabbed the noon bus to head from Dahab back to Cairo. We both could've easily spent weeks more there. In fact we both looked into changing our tickets. But alas, we could not stay in paradise forever, at least not in this lifetime, so we donned are packs and boarded the bus. It was a 10 hour drive to Cairo, where, my parents generously offered to pay for a hotel room outside of the city. I took them up on the offer even though it'd been rumored that the protests in Tahrir square would be dissolving due to the start of Ramadan.

However, watching the news that night, I was glad to be holed up in the confines of a hotel. Images of Tahrir square showed hundreds of soldiers and tanks rolling through dispelling the last of the protestors. Perhaps it was not as dramatic as seen on T.V., but it wasn't really something I wanted to be involved in. It was an interesting experience, however, to watch the Mubarak trial on T.V. in the airport cafe with Egyptians surrounding me. As Mubarak's trial commences, I bring my time in Egypt to a close. Good bye Egypt, it's certainly been an experience!